Training#

I didn’t follow any special training plan - I simply tried to go out for a bike ride whenever possible. Even my daily commute to the office results in roughly 30 km of cycling. Since I had just gotten my new bicycle, it was naturally fun to go out for a ride whenever possible. So the training aspect of preparation happened organically as part of my new bike enthusiasm.

Bike preparation and maintenance#

Owning a new bike made me anxious about potential theft during this trip. I had considered bike insurance, but a friend made a compelling point against it: “There are so many bikes, especially e-bikes, that are worth way more. Why would anyone steal this bike if it’s secured with a proper lock?” So I invested in an Abus CityChain 1060. While being very secure, it’s also quite heavy. But given its size, we could use it for both bikes and share the weight burden during the trip.

For maintenance, I followed the standard procedure: clean the bike thoroughly, oil the chain, and check the tire pressure. I also refined the seating position beforehand to ensure optimal comfort, and installed a holder for a second water bottle - something that would prove invaluable on longer stretches.

Packing strategy#

The key to a successful bike tour is bringing everything you need while leaving behind everything you don’t. Every additional gram means more weight to carry with you over hundreds of kilometers.

I met up with my cycling partner and we carefully discussed who would bring what. Despite having no previous bikepacking experience - spoiler alert - we managed to bring along just enough gear for the ride. The only items we arguably packed “too much” of were spare inner tubes, but as any experienced cyclist knows, those are always good to have extras of.

Route planing#

We then laid out a rough route with a flexible time plan. Since neither of us was fully prepared for such a demanding tour - despite our regular rides in good weather - we planned to cycle to Golling and take the train from there to Böckstein. This would allow us to avoid the most challenging mountain section of the trip. We also deliberately scheduled plenty of extra time. After all, this was a week off work - it should be enjoyable and not stressful.

Day 1 - Home to Golling / Bischofshofen#

We met up near our homes - each cycling a few kilometers individually before starting the journey together. Right away, we got stuck in a mud puddle while trying to avoid the main roads through a forest path. It felt like a warning of challenges to come, but fortunately, it wasn’t representative of what followed. The weather turned out to be perfect, the bike routes were nearly empty (especially in the beginning), and we felt energized and motivated for the adventure ahead.

This first day also marked our first border crossing between Germany and Austria. To maintain high energy levels, I had packed plenty of energy bars to share. This quickly became our daily ritual: regular stops to reenergize.

We continued through Salzburg towards Hallein. Despite encountering many bike commuters, it was refreshing to experience a familiar city from the saddle of a bike. Until then, I had usually navigated Salzburg by car, bus, or on foot. But as I mentioned in a previous blog post, cycling offers its own perfect pace for experiencing places.

Heading south, we were grateful for the abundant signage guiding us in the right direction. Passing through Urstein brought back memories, as I had studied there for my bachelor’s degree. It’s surprising how much one can forget about familiar places over time.

Soon we arrived in Hallein, a beautiful historic city. We were pleasantly surprised by our progress and stamina - neither of us showing signs of fatigue yet.

We continued to Golling, which was meant to be our endpoint for the day. However, we discovered that the trains between Golling and Böckstein were fully booked with cyclists. So we instead took the train to Bischofshofen to stay there overnight, and hope for available space on the train to Böckstein the next day.

In Bischofshofen, we took some time for sightseeing, particularly impressed by the ski jump arena. After our long day of cycling, we enjoyed a hearty dinner and attempted to get an early night’s sleep in preparation for the challenging day ahead. Not all goals were achieved that evening, however.

71 km covered.

Day 2 - Bischofshofen to Böckstein / Mallnitz to Untergratschach#

We started the day somewhat tired after our attempts at an early night. Fortunately, as the saying goes, the best cure for tiredness is exercise - and we had plenty ahead of us.

The stunning landscape definitely boosted our spirits. The scenery was consistently breathtaking, and before long we arrived at Bad Gastein. Before tackling the climb ahead, we decided to fuel up with a proper meal. This proved to be a wise decision, although the ascent through the beautiful town of Bad Gastein went more smoothly than anticipated. Had we known how manageable it would be, we might never have considered taking the train from Golling to Bischofshofen.

Upon reaching Böckstein, we were fortunate to secure spots on the train. Arriving in Mallnitz - now in Carinthia - we found we still had energy to spare and decided to continue. We passed through a town that seemed promising for overnight accommodation, but upon discovering a large festival in progress, we decided it would be wiser to press on a bit further.

We eventually stopped in Obervellach for the night. Since our goal for the day had been to reach Mallnitz, we had already gained some bonus distance. In total, we traveled 69 km this day, but the real challenge was definitely the elevation gain.

69 km covered with a personal best of 959 m elevation gain.

Day 3 - Untergratschach via Spittal an der Drau to Villach#

Having successfully managed the most challenging part of the tour, we began the third day with renewed enthusiasm.

The Ciclovia Alpe Adria route was excellently marked along the way, meaning we rarely needed to consult our phones for navigation. We stopped for coffee and pastries in Spittal an der Drau - which had actually been our planned destination for the day. But since we were making such good progress, we decided to continue on to Villach.

The landscape, while not quite as spectacular as the previous day, was still pleasant. The cycling infrastructure was excellent, allowing us to ride side by side for much of the way, providing ample opportunity for conversation.

75 km covered with good company and conversation.

Day 4 - Villach to Gemona del Friuli#

Our target for the day was Tarvisio, but we arrived there before lunch and decided to continue our journey. This day marked our second border crossing: into Italy.

The cycling route was the highlight of the day. Starting from Tarvisio, we enjoyed a gentle descent along a repurposed railway line, passing through numerous tunnels carved into the mountains. This section was particularly enjoyable, and thanks to the slight downhill gradient, our average speed was impressively high despite covering the longest distance of our trip so far.

The turquoise waters of the Tagliamento River accompanied us for much of the way, adding to the scenic beauty of the route.

We eventually arrived in Gemona del Friuli and decided to stop there for the night. The day had grown increasingly warm, and the next significant town was too distant to reach comfortably.

A personal best of 105 km - our longest day of cycling.

Day 5 - Gemona del Friuli to Udine#

The previous evening, we had begun planning the final days of our journey. Since we were already quite close to Grado and had been moving faster than anticipated, we decided to spend two nights in Udine.

This section of the route was perhaps the least enjoyable part of the entire trip. Route markers were often difficult to spot, causing us to miss turns frequently. We also had to share public roads with vehicles more often, requiring constant vigilance.

Fortunately, this was also our shortest day of cycling on the Ciclovia Alpe Adria.

In Udine, we explored the city and, similar to our night in Bischofshofen, attempted to get an early night’s sleep. Not all aspects of our journey went according to plan, however!

55 km of somewhat challenging navigation.

Day 6 - Udine#

Having established a routine of hearty breakfasts followed by long days of cycling, this rest day in Udine felt almost strange. We had explored much of the city the previous day and found ourselves with time to spare. We simply walked around the charming city and, for once, actually managed an early night.

Day 7 - Udine via Palmanova to Grado#

After nearly missing our daily cycling routine, we eagerly embarked on the final leg of our journey. This was the grand finale: from Udine via Palmanova to our ultimate destination, Grado.

The day was warm and windy, and we were glad to leave the busy streets of Udine behind - not because we disliked the city, but because sharing roads with cars in urban areas can be stressful.

En route to Grado, we passed an impressive-looking town and decided to explore its center. We were delighted by our detour into Palmanova, a unique star-shaped city built in concentric circles. It offered numerous charming restaurants and bars. Had we known about it beforehand, we would have planned an overnight stay there too. Perhaps next time!

The final approach to Grado was both hot and magnificent. The Matteotti Bridge stretches for about five kilometers directly above the sea, offering breathtaking views.

Entering Grado felt triumphant. We immediately headed for the beach, which felt like the perfect finish line for our journey. After checking into our hotel, we took a moment to appreciate what we had accomplished.

58 km for the day, bringing our total to 433 km in 6 days of active cycling.

Day 8 - Grado#

Believe it or not, we decided to go for another bike ride! Just a short one this time, but if anyone had suggested this before our trip began, I would have laughed in disbelief.

35 km of leisure cycling, bringing our final total to 468 km in 7 days.

Day 9 - Homeward Bound#

One advantage of popular cycling routes like the Ciclovia Alpe Adria is the availability of transportation options for the return journey. Several services offer to bring cyclists and their bikes all the way home with vans and trailers, which we gratefully utilized.